Two Japanese designers give heartfelt shows with collections that merge art and music with fashion.
Yohji Yamamoto: Contemporary Contemplation
Painterly splashes of white, a drape of scarlet on inky black, pure white, deep black - Yohji Yamamoto's exceptional collection was written in familiar colours but seemed to transmit this message: once more - with feeling.
"It's about my feelings," admitted Yohji Yamamoto, tilting his hat as he received a deluge of praise backstage.
"We're looking at the sense of the avant-garde", he said.
"It's been all general fashion, but I wanted to make something new," the designer continued.
What Yohji meant was surely that balance between creativity and reality - so difficult to gauge in fashion where the argument is always if the clothes are not wearable, are they clothing at all?
But this perfectly balanced show answered all the questions. There were drapes to shape and flesh seeping out from a sleeve, a cut-away skirt or at the midriff as a jacket shifted. Yet every single one of these off-kilter cuts and scissored-away shapes looked impeccably wearable and quintessentially Yohji.
The story was played out in black, white and red - the latter colour featuring coats worn over only one arm. Paint effects, such as white brush stokes, became full-blown artistry to complement the beauty motif, which was created with white splashes on the hair and face.
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